Did you put it on your windscreen? That's the fatal flaw! I only would ever do the sides and rear. To remove it use acetone (nail polish remover) but be careful with it!!! And then do a final wipe down of the windscreen and wipers with IPA.
They're grand, I've done a few RRS's all Black and never had any problem and I only use Rotary. DA will never be as effective as Rotary, even if you come across sticky paint this doesn't mean you need to change your machine, you need to change your technique. It makes things a little more tricky but it doesn't make it in ineffective, with the right technique you can 'break' through sticky paint and crack on regardless. I wouldn't recommend it for everyone but it also comes down to certain polishes and even pads will get not react as well. This is why I have countless pads types, many different compounds and polishing aids. Autobalm has one use and one use only, to hide defects. It's a remarkable filler but a pain in the ass and I wouldn't advise any one use it. Personally for your RRS Ross I'd be looking at C1 and topped up with C2, proper sealants repel dirt while waxes will cling on to it. I coated my own Land Rover and I think it got 'sponge washed' 5 times last year. It got regularly foamed and rinsed, along with C5 this even left the wheels clean. If you don't want to go for the expense of C1 I'd continue with 476s, like I said above. It can't be beaten for the money.
Come round to mine and I'll give you my jar of Naviwax, I no longer need it as the Vectra doesn't get washed. I used it on my Cayman a few weeks ago and it was great.
Tim you just had to start him off again about Naviwax LOL!! IIRC Amos recommends bull spunk for a decent wax, apparently it beads like nothing else.... A good all rounder that doesn't break the bank IMO is AG HD wax, it's more durable than collinite Im surprised no one has mentioned valentines road and track
what what about the application of C1 Tim - i've read a few horror stories. obviously it's all about the prep work before, but do you think it is okay to apply? also, i cant buy it from the g-techniq site - i take it only trusted persons can buy it?
It certainly isn't the easiest. There really is little room for manoeuvre with it, when it is applied it is almost like IPA as it will remove anything on the paint filling any defects, so the prep really is critical. Temperature is much more important than it would be with a wax when applying. You need to ensure it's removed correctly or it'll need polished again to correct it, but it gives off remarkable gloss and beading initially! There is a Pro only section but I was under the impression C1 was mainstream these days? Let me know if you can't get your hands on it, I can supply you with it if you'd like.
Thanks tim, I'm gonna order up some P1, C1, C2 and C5. I watched the videos on the gtechniq site so I'm happier now, and there's one of my mates has done his new clio sport with C1 so he's gonna get stuck in with me. Have you used their wool pad with the P1 tim? It was impressive that they practically couldn't strike through with the wool pad. I wonder how the wool will be on my paint?
You can strike through with anything Ross. I've seen the video too but nothing is strike/burn proof. Essentially the difference with P1 unlike most other compounds is it really isn't all that abrasive compared to the likes of FCP, it's more lubricant and it's the cut of the pad that does the correction instead. I've used P1 and wool before but I wouldn't be thinking about it on RRS, if anything like the others I've seen it will be too harsh alone and leave trails. Just make sure you give it a proper IPA wipe down and inspection before applying
Are you being serious about AG HD being more durable than Collinite Crimson? Not in my experience anyway!
Yup, I seen a article where it was tested against AG HD and other waxes: http://www.seatcupra.net/forums/showthread.php?s=42ce1965437430e645b1335dd65fb52c&t=178666 After reading this article I decided to test it's findings by applying collinite 476s to my Octavia and applying AG HD to my other half's Fezzer The collinite lasted well for 6mths, but the AG HD was still going strong after 7+mths on the Fezzer and both cars were cleaned with the same products and each car was a daily driver
what would people recommend for a metallic blue paint? there is so much on the market and ones that add "depth" or ones that have a "wet look" see even cheap waxs like simoniz original, seems like a pretty solid wax do does that give it a longer life? im currently using Meguiars Carnuba wax also im currently using menzerna compounds, find it doesnt really cut as much as i would like with the buffer, is this my technique or is there better cutting conpounds? iv heard people going on about the fastcut by 3m
If you are using the Megs liquid carnuba wax I've found that it doesn't last very long TBH Valentines road and track gives a nice wet look finish to paintwork but you need to keep topping it up PB's black hole is a great filler glaze and gives great deph to car paintwork as does PB's white diamond each cutting compound and pad will behave differently on different types of paintwork Jap cars tend to have softer paint whereas european cars will tend have harder paintwork. It's all trial and error TBH and detailing world would give you a better insight IMO